Tuesday, March 30, 2010

A Hike to Remember

Something that we have both wanted to do for some time now is to hike into the Grand Canyon. This is something that takes some planning. We kept saying oh lets go this fall, this spring, next fall, next spring, but it was just not happening.
Finally, Brian said enough already and got online to see what we needed to do to get down there. You can not stay the night in the canyon without a back country permit. These are given out well in advance and done by lottery. Brian faxed our application in and then we waited. We had a first choice of hiking in staying 3 nights and hiking out. We were going to do this with our friends Melanie and Greg.
When we finally heard from the park, we got our second choice of dates and Melanie and Greg got denied all together. Well that sucks. They had done this hike before so they were not that disappointed.
We had months to prepare for the weekend. Brian slowly gathered equipment and we bought the things we needed. I tried to not think about it because I knew it was going to be grueling and my body was going to hurt.
The time came so quickly and it was time to pack. Although cold on top of the canyon, it is significantly warmer at the bottom so I packed for that weather more than the rim weather. We split up the gear and we were ready to go.
Thursday March 25, after work, we drove to the canyon and stayed just outside the park. I was excited and nervous. Our first day of hiking involved going down on the South Kaibab Trail for 7 miles. Downhill, steeply going downhill for 7 miles! We got our gear all packed up that morning and headed to the park. As we waited for the bus to take us to the trailhead it began to snow. SNOW! So not prepared for this. We did not bring hats and Brian has no gloves, it was going to be a chilly start.

Once we got to the trailhead we got started right away. The winds were howling and it was snowing and down there at the bottom was warm wonderful weather waiting for me. Down and down we went. As we kept going we shed layers as the air warmed up. It was beautiful seeing the canyon change colors.

Downhill for a long time really is annoying. It wears on those poor muscles that never get a break, but as we made our way down we finally got a glimpse of the river. Not too far now.

As we approached the river, we had to go through a small tunnel and then cross a bridge. This was it, we were at the bottom of the canyon! Only a little more walking, thankfully flat, and we were at the campground. It felt so good to take that pack off and take my shoes off and rest my weary body.

We rested a bit and then headed up to Phantom Ranch to have a look at the place. Not what a I thought at all. We then walked back to the river, down to the beach and we both touched the river. It was muddy and cold and fast. As we ventured around we encountered a small group of Mule Deer, cute. The canyon looks so small down here. You cant see the rim from here and the walls along the river and campground are not towering. Its so unusual but you know you are very very very far from where you started. You are a mile deep into the earth.

We went to the Ranger Program that night and slept decently thinking our bodies did not hurt too bad.

HA! We woke up on Saturday and we ached and we were stiff. Oh no. We only had a little less than 5 miles to get to the next campground. We packed up and got started. It was slow going at first, and then later and also at the end. It started out kinda easy and then quickly moved to sand, and lots of it for a long time. Come on!

On and on we went eventually leaving the river behind and slowly moving up a side canyon. It was so beautiful. When you are at the top you have no idea about the life going on down here. The huge cottonwoods growing along a small stream, the birds, the mule deer, its amazing at the bottom.

About 3 hours later we arrived at Indian Gardens, our new home for the night. It was along a stream and shaded by large trees.

From here I could see the rim and I stared at it thinking my achy legs. Oh my how will I get myself up there feeling like this. No new blisters today but the old ones were very angry. We set up camp and I immediately crawled in and napped. My legs hurt. Once I rested Brian and I took a 3 mile round trip hike out to Plateau Point. This is a flat area you can easily see from the top.



It does not seem far down but it would be a 12 mile round trip if you wanted to get to it from the top. The hike was easy and my body appreciated the movement without the pack. It was so worth the hike, what views. We could see the river and the tiny hikers winding their way up the trail we just journeyed along.

After dinner it got very cold and boring. What to do when its dark and cold and you cant have a fire and there are no ranger talks. Go to sleep.

Day 3 we were up and ready to go by 9am. I limped around the camp gathering my things as my muscles slowly loosened but this day was going to be a tough day. We decided that at each of the stops every mile and half we would break. This trip out was only 4.5 miles but 3000 feet up. So away we went. It was nice and gradual at first and then the area known as Jacobs ladder came. A ridiculous number of switchbacks in a row. Slowly but surely I kept myself going up and up. We spotted a Big Horned Sheep above us, which made me happy. Finally we got to the first stop. Packs off, a mini snack and break made all the difference. Back on the trail I puttered along the trail. I enjoyed when the mule trains would pass because I was forced to stop and wait and it gave me a small break. However, under my breath I called those people lazy asses. I had good momentum and was not willing to stop for anyone coming down the trail. It would be bad hiking etiquette to not move for an uphill hiker, FYI.

We arrived at the 1.5 mile stop. Here we had lunch and took a long break. I only had 1.5 miles to go, I was so happy. Soon I would be at the top where french fries were served. The last part of the hike was a little worse. It was narrow and icy and crowded. People love to hike just a little ways down this trail. It was slow going for me as we went around ice and mud.

Then around a corner and there it was the top, so visible so close. Go Nina go. We pushed on and finally we were out of the canyon. This trip took us 4.5 hrs with our breaks. I was tired and sweaty and so ready for some cold pop and french fries. Camping food is not good, not really, its just something to nurish you.

So that was our adventure into the canyon. We traveled 20 miles over 3 days and journey up and down some ridiculous amount of elevation gain and loss. I recommend it to everyone if you can do it. Do walk down to the bottom of the canyon. We are less than 1% of the people who visit the canyon, those who go to the bottom. Sweet!

-Nina

1 comment:

Hallie said...

amazing! ;)